INTERVIEW: Dr. Andre West is Professor of Textile and Apparel Technology and Management at North Carolina State University’s Wilson College of Textiles, where he also serves as Director of the Zeis Textiles Extension (ZTE). A leading voice in the push for sustainable textile systems, Dr. West focuses on circularity, innovation, and the integration of natural fibers—including industrial hemp—into modern manufacturing and design education. Through ZTE, he works at the intersection of academia and industry to advance scalable, eco-conscious solutions in fiber development, processing, and end-use applications.
HempToday: You’ve long championed natural fibers in sustainable design. What qualities make hemp uniquely suited for 21st-century textile innovation?
Dr. Andre West: Hemp is a remarkable fiber with a rich history spanning thousands of years. What excites me most is its sustainability—it uses less water, thrives in diverse conditions, and, perhaps most charmingly, it actually gets more comfortable and beautiful with age. Hemp’s resilience and eco-friendly profile make it a standout choice for the future of textiles.
HT: What historical or structural challenges are holding back the development of a hemp textile industry in the U.S.?
AW: In the U.S., we’re essentially building a hemp industry from scratch, since prohibition meant we never really had one to begin with. Legalization in 2018 gave us a starting point, but we’d already lost much of our traditional textile infrastructure. Trying to launch a new industry—especially one as complex as hemp textiles—on top of that is a real challenge.
HT: What’s a breakthrough you’re exploring, and what would successful commercialization of it mean for the hemp industry and sustainable fashion more broadly?
AW: One major breakthrough is spinning 100% hemp, which we achieve by working with longer fiber lengths—about 4 inches, or 100 mm. We’ve invested in specialized equipment to process this length and have had success using a green degumming process, avoiding harsh chemicals to keep things truly sustainable. Even more revolutionary, we’re now experimenting with skipping the degumming step altogether. This could make processing faster, simpler, and less expensive. If successful, it would elevate hemp from a commodity—often blended with cotton—to a luxurious fiber that can stand alone or be blended with other sustainable materials like wool, linen, or even pineapple fiber.
Meet Dr. Andre West at next month’s NIHC Global Industrial Hemp Fiber Summit in Raleigh, North Carolina, USA. Register now!
HT: From your vantage point at ZTE, how has the industry’s interest in hemp evolved over the past five years? Are we still in the exploratory phase, or moving toward implementation?
AW: We’re finally seeing both exploration and real implementation. It’s taken about five years to reach this point, with significant investment and research along the way. The momentum is building, and it’s exciting to witness the shift from curiosity to action.
HT: Hemp textiles often find themselves caught between traditional natural fiber markets and high-tech innovation sectors. Where do you see the greatest first commercial potential emerging—workwear, fashion, technical textiles, or elsewhere?
AW: The key is to target the “low-hanging fruit” and understand where hemp’s strengths give it an edge. Hemp is naturally stronger and more durable than cotton, so workwear and performance clothing—especially in the outdoor market—are ideal starting points. There’s no need to compete head-to-head with cotton; instead, we should focus on areas where hemp’s unique properties shine.
HT: What role should public policy and institutional investment play in accelerating hemp’s role in U.S. textiles, especially compared to support for cotton or synthetics?
AW: Investing in the future is essential. We know that current textile production is harming the planet, and hemp is one of several promising alternatives. States like North Carolina are well-positioned to grow hemp at scale, given their agricultural and textile heritage. Legalization has helped, but we need clear, proactive public policy—something Europe is leading on. In the U.S., change often happens gradually, but for hemp to truly take off, we’ll need deliberate policy support.
HT: What are some of the key technical hurdles in working with hemp fiber, and how is your team addressing them through research and collaboration?
AW: It’s important to understand that hemp isn’t a cure-all—it has both strengths and limitations in textile processing. There’s a learning curve, and it takes research to navigate the technical challenges. By collaborating with other researchers, we’re tackling these hurdles one by one, whether it’s degumming, spin finishes, or using natural dyes to enhance the final product.
HT: What single change—technological, regulatory, or cultural—would make the biggest difference in advancing hemp as a mainstream textile fiber in the U.S.?
AW: Brands need to recognize that domestic manufacturing of hemp textiles is not just viable, but a smart, long-term strategy to meet consumer demand. That shift in mindset could be transformative for the industry.
HT: What kinds of students are enrolling at Wilson College today? Are you seeing a shift in motivations or values compared to a decade ago? To what extent are today’s students arriving with sustainability already top of mind?
AW: Today’s students are deeply aware of issues like climate change and global warming—many experience what I’d call “eco-anxiety.” Our job is to empower them with the knowledge and skills to be proactive, so they can use their education to make a positive impact on the planet and society.
HT: What kinds of industry professionals are engaging with Wilson College and ZTE programs today? Are they seeking retraining, collaboration, or something else?
AW: ZTE is a leader in training professionals, even those with little or no textile background. For the industry to move forward—not just in hemp, but across the board—we need well-educated employees. Whether they’re coming straight from Wilson College or transitioning into textiles later in their careers, ZTE offers the training needed to develop the next generation of industry leaders.